This a sample private label article from the mold plr article package.

Crown moldings are decorative details that can be added to a room to spruce it up or give a definitive touch to its theme. They are also referred to as ‘sprung cove’ moldings as they are used to cover the seam where the ceiling and wall meet. There is endless variety in styles and designs to choose from but it is cutting the crown molding, which is the tricky part.

Guidelines for cutting crown molding

At the back of all crown molding are upper and lower edges that meet the ceiling and wall squarely and these are the edges that are used to guide you in making accurate cuts. A miter saw is the best and easiest way to cut crown molding correctly. It can be a power miter saw or a hand miter box. The first step would be to measure the molding pieces precisely as there is no use for crown molding cut hastily and just a little too short. Next step would be to set the wall side edge of the molding against the back fence of the saw and ceiling side edge against the saw base. Cutting slowly and carefully in a straight line, ensure that the molding remains seated against the saw’s fence throughout the process. For corners, cut opposite 45 degree angles so that the crown molding pieces fit together. It is recommended, whenever possible, to complete a run of crown molding using just one piece. For longer stretches, mitering the ends of two pieces at parallel 45-degree angles is suggested so that they fit together to continue the line- this is called a scarf joint and hides a gap if the wood shrinks.
Most crown moldings are narrow, so the average miter saw will be able to handle it with ease. To cut cove moldings with bevel and miter angle at the same time, use a compound miter saw, which has a second pivot point on the blade assembly.

Finishing steps to a cutting crown molding project

The simpler crown moldings can be fastened in place with tiny nails and glued together at the ends while the complex, intricate designs with multiple pieces, need to be attached to a square nailing strip that fits into the seam where the ceiling and wall meet – this gives extra depth to the crown molding. The handy person may need to drill pilot holes to keep from splitting the wood and nail them in place with finish nails at each wall stud location.

This a sample private label article from the Ceramic Tiles plr article package.

In order to cut ceramic tiles there are various safety measures which should be always kept in mind for security reasons. When cutting tiles, one should always wear safety glasses as the ceramic surface can produce sharp splinters. The tiles around the edge of the main area requires to be cut, as will tiles to fit the contours of other items like washbasins and pipes.
Cutting Tile-Straight Cuts:
1. As you tile into the corners you will always need to be cuffing tile as you go.
2. Always measure accurately with a tape measure.
3. Most of the tile dealers can lend you a simple tile cutter. One can also rent a wet saw from your local equipment rental center.
4. While cutting with a non-power tile cutter, score the tile only once. Multiple scores will only dull the blade and create jagged edges on the tile. Always place the breaking wings, located at the bottom of the handle, at about 1/2" from either edge of the tile and slowly but firmly press down on the handle until the wings break the tile. If required , smooth any rough edges with a tile sander. Always cut tiles to fit around pipes and faucets after all the field tiles are laid.
Various different ways to make more complicated cuts:
A) With the tile nipper one can cut tiles to irregular shapes. Scoring the cutoff line with a micro cutter always helps. You might need to cut a tile in two so that the tile wraps around the plumbing.
B) With a wet tile saw (rented from your local equipment rental center) one can always cut the tile with a series of cuts and then go over it with the blade to smooth it out.
If you are in the making of complicated cuts it may be worth it to rent a diamond cut-off wheel like this at an equipment rental center or your tile dealer. One can also use a saber saw with a carbide blade or, for small holes for plumbing pipes, you can use a tile cuffing attachment for your drill.

This a sample private label article from the Ceramic Tiles plr article package.

A faucet is a device used for regulates the flow of a liquid from reservoir such as a pipe or drum. Various tools used to cut the tile around the faucets. They are namely, Tile cutter, Tile Nipper, Notched Trowel, Grout Float, Rod Saw, Grind Stone, Tub Saw, and Jamb Saw.

Tools used in cutting the tile:

Tile cutter is used for straight cuts in the tile in the region of the faucets. A tile cutter is the most excellent tool for a do it yourselfer. It holds the tile in a casing as one score the cut line with a small wheel. To use it firstly score it several times if you have a thick tile. Then press down on the handle it snaps the tile at the scored line. Tile cutters are accessible at the supply stores, but it may be the best to rent the tile cutter if you are not planning to use it in the future. One should use the tile nipper for uneven cuts. You should score the cut line with a glass cutter or service knife. Then chew off small bits of tile until you remove what you need. It helps to score rule in the area you want to be removed. This will help you carry on the nibbled pieces small. Tile nippers will depart jagged edges on the tile so use them in less visible areas or where you’ll be covering it with trim, like around plumbing fixtures. Notched trowels are used to spread and comb adhesives in the underlayment. Two sides of the trowel are serrated with either "V" or "square-shaped" notches. Use a square-notched trowel for locating thin sets on horizontal surfaces. Use v-notched trowels for locating mastics on vertical surfaces. Trowels also come in diverse notch depths. Use the one that is two-thirds of the thickness of the tile you are going top set. Grout floats are rubber or foam-faced trowels used to compel grout into the joints between the tiles. Use comprehensive motions diagonally and back and forth to work the grout into the joints.

Installing the Trim Tiles:

All the edges of the tiled area are required to be finished off with quarter round edge and corner pieces. Simply grease the adhesive on the back of the tile and stick onto the wall the correct position. As soon as the joints are filled, use the straight edge on the side of the float to scrap the excess grout off the tiles. You are required to hold the float almost at a 90 degree angle to do this. Again, diagonal motions work at its best for this. As with jagged trowels, one can also buy disposable grout floats at your tile supply store.

This a sample private label article from the Ceramic Tiles plr article package.

Ceramic tiles can be loaded over practically any level, firm rigid surface e.g. plaster, cement render, fiber cement sheet, plasterboard, even surfaces like metal, old tiles and wood can be tiled over using the correct adhesive. Just remove loose or flaking paint. Thoroughly take away water based paint. Do not use paint stripper as remains may act as a releasing agent. Oil based paint ought to be sound. Roughen surface by mechanical means. Permit surface to dry after cleaning. By no means tile over a wallpapered surface or one with any other surface which may separate from the base wall. Keep in mind, the finished job is only as good as the surface beneath.

Walls of the houses:

The walls of most houses are hardly ever perfectly vertical, so to ensure your tiling is at right angles to the base, use your plumb bob to make a vertical line to follow. Keep in mind, if you start against the wall with a full tile at the base, the lean on the side wall can mean you will be filling in several centimeters of tile at the top, so arrange your layout so this does not occur. When tiling around windows, keep the returned tiles in line with the rest of the wall tiles and your cuts to the back. Particular tiling trim moldings are an excellent way of hiding these external corners. These are accessible in metal and PVC in a full range of colors. This is one of the easiest parts of the job and yet one which people has least confidence about. A usual straight cut is made by marking the tile with a thin felt pen where it is to be cut, then scribing across that line with a wheel of the scriber or breaker. Then merely break the tile with the jaws of the tool.

Conclusion:

If only a very little amount is to be cut off the tile, scribe as normal, but then with very small nibbles, nip the rest of the tile away. The biggest thing that you should remember is, use small bites. It is likely to cut a hole in the centre of a tile using various methods with various degrees of success. Beaumont Tiles have found to be the best method for the handyman, to use the carborundum rod saw blade by drilling a hole with a masonry bit and using the rod saw blade as a fret saw. Otherwise, an angle grinder by means of a diamond or carborundum wheel can be used. Whenever you cut with nippers, it is an excellent idea to tidy up the edges with a carborundum file or stone.